Cal Club Autocross Forums

Can you guys confirm my reading of Appendix A?

2016 Jaguar F-Type R

AS shows F-Type Noc
SS shows F-Type R & SVR (2018)

So a 2018 R is in SS but a 2016 R is in AS. Right?
Based on how the years are handled in parentheses on other combined lines.

Hey Robert, welcome back (in advance)

Trusting your prior knowledge in SOLO already excluded any other F type classing... ergo the NOC line from AS, I would agree with your reading...

While the car was redesigned for MY18, Jaguar's advertised motor & performance specs are identical between MY17 & MY18 R & SVR's. (Didn't look at MY16's specs)
... I find it curious that MY18 is being specifically called out. Since the motor specs are identical, the SEB must believe there is a substantial suspension difference that Jag doesn't feel inclined to point out in their brochure.

Though.... the MY18 SVR does have an optional "deploy-able rear spoiler", it requires a package, and is not avail on the R. - This hardly seams a reason to bump both models up a class.

Hello muchachos

The rule book has the Subaru WRX STI (04-17) classified under BS. Sooooo... Im just gonna assume that my 2018 WRX STI is in the same class?

Makes complete sense to me

DIEGO TOBAR wrote:Hello muchachos

The rule book has the Subaru WRX STI (04-17) classified under BS. Sooooo... Im just gonna assume that my 2018 WRX STI is in the same class?

Makes complete sense to me

Yep, you should be fine in BS so long as you haven't made any modifications outside of the street class rules.

Reed Gibson wrote: Yep, you should be fine in BS so long as you haven't made any modifications outside of the street class rules.

Had to double check but nope my modifications are still within the street class.

Ok,

I imagine my garden variety Miata is too modded for ES, so here goes;

NB Miata (1999)
single adj coilovers
stainless header and tailpipe/stock cat midpipe
frame rails/fender brackets
racing beat (to be replaced by homemade) intake
15x7s with street tires (Federals, I should get a break for that! )
removable steering wheel
Koyo alum radiator
appearance gew gaws that are supposed to look aerodynamic (plastic bumper lip and flat piece down the sides)

Thanks everyone! See you Sat!

David Watson wrote:Ok,

I imagine my garden variety Miata is too modded for ES, so here goes;

NB Miata (1999)
single adj coilovers
stainless header and tailpipe/stock cat midpipe
frame rails/fender brackets
racing beat (to be replaced by homemade) intake
15x7s with street tires (Federals, I should get a break for that! )
removable steering wheel
Koyo alum radiator
appearance gew gaws that are supposed to look aerodynamic (plastic bumper lip and flat piece down the sides)

Thanks everyone! See you Sat!

Well, you know, CST is always good for dual builds. Otherwise those frame braces put you in like SSM or XP.

Thanks Anthony!

Perusing the rules, I can do STS, and STR if I go crazy on wheels and tires. Looking at the results from Sunday, my Sat times were in line with that group, which also had similar cars.

David Watson wrote:Perusing the rules, I can do STS, and STR if I go crazy on wheels and tires. Looking at the results from Sunday, my Sat times were in line with that group, which also had similar cars.

NB's are in STR, but yours has frame rails which bump it out of that class

Hello, new here can you guys help me class my car.
Its a 2004 Subaru STI
Mods:
Aftermarket header and full exhaust
CF hood
And a 6 point Roll Cage
Everything else is stock

Thanks

ALEX MENDEZ wrote:Hello, new here can you guys help me class my car.
Its a 2004 Subaru STI
Mods:
Aftermarket header and full exhaust
CF hood
And a 6 point Roll Cage
Everything else is stock

Thanks

Tires 200tw or greater CST
Tires less than that on tw CSM

2009 Honda Civic Si: N/A, Coilovers, CAI, Tuned, K-Tuned Race Header, Straight Pipe.

Nathan Nichols wrote:2009 Honda Civic Si: N/A, Coilovers, CAI, Tuned, K-Tuned Race Header, Straight Pipe.

Your straight pipe bumps you from Street Touring into Street Prepared (aka Hoosier-land). If you replaced it with a high-flow cat then you'd be in STX as long as you meet the wheel width/tire size requirements.

Check https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules for the complete rules. If your car doesn't fit into any of these categories then I'd recommend running CST which is are catch-all street tired car class.

So I was reading the November FastTrack and I'm a little confused as to the date the Focus RS will be moved from BS to DS. In the FastTrack it states at the top of it that "unless otherwise noted all class changes are effective 01/01/2020." Does that mean it will be another year before the move or is the move going into effect at the start of the 2019 season? Any clarity anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated.

2019 stock VW GTI dsg, what class would I run in. I came out last Sunday and had a great time, everybody was so friendly. Not sure I will be ready for the next race, but will be out for the Saturday and try to learn as much as I can.

What modifications if any can I do, tires, sway bar, shocks ? where could I find that information

DOUG LIERLE

Douglas Lierle wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 9:41 pm 2019 stock VW GTI dsg, what class would I run in. I came out last Sunday and had a great time, everybody was so friendly. Not sure I will be ready for the next race, but will be out for the Saturday and try to learn as much as I can.

What modifications if any can I do, tires, sway bar, shocks ? where could I find that information

DOUG LIERLE

Solo Rules are here: https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-cars-and-rules, click on the link for the PDF. Section 13 (page 71) starts with Street Category and tells you what you can do. Appendix A shows car classifications. Searching for Volkswagen, looks like G Street (GS).

Current gen GTI Start in G-Street
Under street rules, you can:
[*]Change Wheels to any that are: the same width as factory, within 5mm offset either direction, and are within +/-1 inch diameter (ex, an 18x7 +35 wheel could be replaced by a 19x7 +30 or a 17x7 +40
[*]Change Tires to any that are over 200 TW and fit on legal wheels as above
[*]replace a front or rear swaybar. you only get one, and the other has to be in factory specs.
[*]Install aftermarket shocks - up to two adjustments. the factory spring and spring perch height must be used (aka, you can't lower it.. or use "coilovers")
[*]Install an aftermarket cat back exhaust - No changing the cat or anything forward of it.
[*]Install an aftermarket filter in the stock location. (no pod filters, cold air intakes, etc)
[*]Install aftermarket brake pads

Anything other than those modifications will move you to a higher class.

A couple refinements on Shane's post:

• We - well the Solo Events Board which oversees the National rule set - increased the wheel offset allowance to 7mm, so there's a little more wiggle room in your choice. For those who don't speak metric, that accommodates +/- 1/4".
• Tire requirements are 200 or greater TW. You can run 200 TW tires.
• Anti-roll bar end links may also be replaced. You don't have to stay with the OEM parts if you don't want to.
• Fasteners are, to a certain extent, free. If your car uses wheel bolts and you want to convert to studs, that's legal. (Don't change your head bolts, don't replace all your fasteners with titanium hardware to shave off 50 lbs, don't use tortured interpretations to justify illegal setups...)

Aaaand we'd probably be smart to point out that the state has a new exhaust law on the books, at least for now. If you have an aftermarket exhaust, you're illegal. If you're caught, in addition to requiring correction and payment of whatever the usual fees, penalties, taxes, tax penalties, fee taxes, and shipping and handling are, you'll also be given a Brand New!!! $1,000 penalty.

Someone decided "aftermarket" = "loud."

Hi all, just did my first autoX this weekend (non-SCCA), and am looking to get more involved. My current setup is:

2015 NC Miata PRHT
Tein Flex Z Coilovers
Adj Front & Rear Sway Bars
Full Exhaust - Header, Midpipe with Cat, Muffler
Tuned ECU
17x9 wheels w/ 245/40-17 Firehawk Indy500 (340TW). Likely going to RE-71R's soon.

What class am I looking? Thanks in advance.

Tim Sanchez wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:16 am Hi all, just did my first autoX this weekend (non-SCCA), and am looking to get more involved. My current setup is:

2015 NC Miata PRHT
Tein Flex Z Coilovers
Adj Front & Rear Sway Bars
Full Exhaust - Header, Midpipe with Cat, Muffler
Tuned ECU
17x9 wheels w/ 245/40-17 Firehawk Indy500 (340TW). Likely going to RE-71R's soon.

What class am I looking? Thanks in advance.

STR

Reed Gibson wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:26 am

Tim Sanchez wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:16 am Hi all, just did my first autoX this weekend (non-SCCA), and am looking to get more involved. My current setup is:

2015 NC Miata PRHT
Tein Flex Z Coilovers
Adj Front & Rear Sway Bars
Full Exhaust - Header, Midpipe with Cat, Muffler
Tuned ECU
17x9 wheels w/ 245/40-17 Firehawk Indy500 (340TW). Likely going to RE-71R's soon.

What class am I looking? Thanks in advance.

STR

That's the "official" SCCA class for you based on what you described, but you can also run in CST, our local class for "run what you brung" on 200 treadwear or higher tires. You might check both of those out and see which seems like a better group of competitors for your goals.

Shane Donahue wrote: ↑Thu Jan 17, 2019 2:10 pm Current gen GTI Start in G-Street
Under street rules, you can:
[*]Change Wheels to any that are: the same width as factory, within 5mm offset either direction, and are within +/-1 inch diameter (ex, an 18x7 +35 wheel could be replaced by a 19x7 +30 or a 17x7 +40
[*]Change Tires to any that are over 200 TW and fit on legal wheels as above
[*]replace a front or rear swaybar. you only get one, and the other has to be in factory specs.
[*]Install aftermarket shocks - up to two adjustments. the factory spring and spring perch height must be used (aka, you can't lower it.. or use "coilovers")
[*]Install an aftermarket cat back exhaust - No changing the cat or anything forward of it.
[*]Install an aftermarket filter in the stock location. (no pod filters, cold air intakes, etc)
[*]Install aftermarket brake pads

Anything other than those modifications will move you to a higher class.

Thank you Shane and Mike. Probably learn my ropes for awhile and leave it stock, maybe some 17" Neuspeed wheels and tires, what tires do u suggest? full on race mode, race mode to get through the season, and tire for both street and track. Planing on using 18" for street until I sell them, so I will have two 17's sets, one full race mode, and comfort tire for the street, no reason for me to race canyons, I leave racing on the track

Tks for help, u guys are a real friendly bunch

I'm not familiar with the latest 200 TW hotness, but others here are and you can probably also get to the Grassroots Motorsports (GRM) tire comparison and see what fits your budget / performance goals.

I will say, though, that if you really mean "track" in that statement above, that's a different beast than autocross. We generally need tires that perform very well with 15 seconds of heat, where track guys need tires that can handle heat for 15+ minutes. The compounds *have* to be different for those two divergent goals.

And I'll add my key metric for street tires is usually wet braking. I might care a *little* how good dry cornering grip is on a street tire, but the critical performance factor for street tires seems to be keeping me out of an accident, and I think one of the most important tests for that is how well they brake when we have adverse weather. I know... we don't generally have that, but that's when accidents spike.

Mike Simanyi wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:03 pm

Reed Gibson wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:26 am

Tim Sanchez wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:16 am Hi all, just did my first autoX this weekend (non-SCCA), and am looking to get more involved. My current setup is:

2015 NC Miata PRHT
Tein Flex Z Coilovers
Adj Front & Rear Sway Bars
Full Exhaust - Header, Midpipe with Cat, Muffler
Tuned ECU
17x9 wheels w/ 245/40-17 Firehawk Indy500 (340TW). Likely going to RE-71R's soon.

What class am I looking? Thanks in advance.

STR

That's the "official" SCCA class for you based on what you described, but you can also run in CST, our local class for "run what you brung" on 200 treadwear or higher tires. You might check both of those out and see which seems like a better group of competitors for your goals.

That's to both of you for the input! I'm excited to get more involved. I've recently driven SOW, and this weekend's autoX, and it was such a blast. I've perused SCCA info over time but it's been a bit overwhelming with info, so I appreciate the feedback. Sorry, I failed to mention that I run Hawk HP+ pads, with steel braided lines, but I don't think that would make a difference?

Is there a benefit for choosing one or the other (STR vs CST), I'm assuming you can only be part of one? I'm also still trying to figure out the membership process....I believe if I register for SCCA (Individual) that it includes the regional club (Cal Club) fees? And then in addition to that, it's advised to get a points card, which I believe involves choosing a club? Thanks in advance. Still trying to learn and figure this out....if there is a specific post or page that has this, please point me to it!