Stock Class Mods

[Matt Cipolla]

Hi everyone,

I want to make some changes to my Matrix that are allowable within stock class rules. The mods that I have in mind are (in no particular order):

Front sway bar ($100-200)
Catback exhaust ($300-400) OR Polish OEM exhaust ($?)
Air filter ($40)
Front brake pads ($?)
Rear brake shoes ($?)

Tires are not listed because I bought brand new tires about 6 months ago...just before I discovered autocrossing, and I want to get my money's worth out of them. And I think new wheels + racing tires would be too expensive.

I was wondering if anybody has input as to whether or not any of these changes will provide a beneficial gain for racing, and if so, which items should have priority?

(I plan to sell my car and resell any new parts at the end of the year, so I can get a better car for my 2nd season, but I want my car to be as good as possible for NOV class this year!)

Thanks in advance!

[Theo O.]

1. Best tire you can afford within class rules.
2. Front sway.
3. Good brake pads.
4. Air cleaner.
5. Exhaust. It's always tempting to do this first but the benefits are marginal.

Most people will say, just keep working on the nut behind the wheel, but I understand that part of the fun is messing with the car, just make changes in a logical manner.

[Jayson Woodruff]

What did you have in mind on the brakes? Stock allowance is very limited here. I you can do any brake pad, and maybe upgrade the lines (might just be for older cars).

A lot of people find OEM pads are actually ideally suited for AutoX. Most "race" pads require heat to operate well, you get that heat by taking a few laps at ButtonWillow. We pretty much run on cold pads. OEM pads are designed to work well cold. There are a couple of pads that are possibly better for AutoX, but I'd wait until you've at least gotten into R-comps to see if you even need more brake.

Jay W

Front brakes ($?)
Rear brakes($?)

[Matt Cipolla]

1. Best tire you can afford within class rules.
2. Front sway.
3. Good brake pads.
4. Air cleaner.
5. Exhaust. It's always tempting to do this first but the benefits are marginal.

Most people will say, just keep working on the nut behind the wheel, but I understand that part of the fun is messing with the car, just make changes in a logical manner.

I just edited my initial post to add that I bought brand new tires just before I discovered autoX, so I want to get my money's worth with those.

Does air cleaner = air filter? haha newbie here.

I think I'm so tempted to do the exhaust just because of the beautiful sound the car will make. I have heard that polishing the OEM exhaust manifold might be a better option? I don't think there's anything against that in the stock rules.

And yes, my main focus will be ony my driving, but I do want to squeeze as much out of the car as possible. And, of course, it's fun!

Thanks for your response!

What did you have in mind on the brakes? Stock allowance is very limited here. I you can do any brake pad, and maybe upgrade the lines (might just be for older cars).

A lot of people find OEM pads are actually ideally suited for AutoX. Most "race" pads require heat to operate well, you get that heat by taking a few laps at ButtonWillow. We pretty much run on cold pads. OEM pads are designed to work well cold. There are a couple of pads that are possibly better for AutoX, but I'd wait until you've at least gotten into R-comps to see if you even need more brake.

Jay W

Front brakes ($?)
Rear brakes($?)

I just edited my initial post to clarify. I meant front pads and rear drum shoes. I think you are right about lines being only for older cars.

Obviously, I don't know much about autoX yet, but my instinct is that I would rather make changes that improve handling (sway bar) and performance (air filter, exhaust) as opposed to braking. But maybe I'm underestimating the importance of the brakes.

Thanks for the advice!

[Ron Tsumura]

You should also consider installing revalved aftermarket shocks if your shocks need replacing and locate some lighter aftermarket wheels in the stock size and offset on the used market.

[Kurt Rahn]

You should also consider installing revalved aftermarket shocks if your shocks need replacing and locate some lighter aftermarket wheels in the stock size and offset on the used market.

+1. You're allowed to have double adjustable shocks, but they tend to cost a fair amount. You can get single adjustable Koni Yellows for about $700, and other than the FSB, that will make the most noticeable difference (plus, you can put them on the softer settings when you're driving on the street)

[Robert Puertas]

Unless your current airfilter and brakes are in very poor condition, you are unlikely to see any improvement from changing them.

Tires are the number one area where you can gain performance.
Shocks are second.
The sway bar is third.

Improving the driver will make a bigger than all of those combined.
Take whatever money you have budgeted and spend it to run every event you can.
Run both LA and San Diego. Keep your eyes peeled for schools. Ask for help at practices. Everyone will be happy to offer pointers and even drive your car to give you a target to aim for.

[Jason Isley BS RX8]

I just edited my initial post to add that I bought brand new tires just before I discovered autoX, so I want to get my money's worth with those.

Does air cleaner = air filter? haha newbie here.

I think I'm so tempted to do the exhaust just because of the beautiful sound the car will make. I have heard that polishing the OEM exhaust manifold might be a better option? I don't think there's anything against that in the stock rules.

And yes, my main focus will be ony my driving, but I do want to squeeze as much out of the car as possible. And, of course, it's fun!

I just edited my initial post to clarify. I meant front pads and rear drum shoes. I think you are right about lines being only for older cars.

Obviously, I don't know much about autoX yet, but my instinct is that I would rather make changes that improve handling (sway bar) and performance (air filter, exhaust) as opposed to braking. But maybe I'm underestimating the importance of the brakes.

Thanks for the advice!

You can not touch the exhaust manifold in stock, its cat-back only. Get a lightweight free flowing system. If you cant find one, get a Coast Fabrication muffler and have Beta Motorsports build you a custom cat-back. Saves weight and makes power.

Air filter is a drop-in replacement element only, no other parts can be replaced.

Don't touch the brakes, as long as they are still working they will be fine for Solo. We still run the stock rear shoes on our road race car, the drums are just along for the ride.

Why do you want to change the front swaybar? Have you run the car yet? What handling characteristic are you trying to change with the front bar?

Check and see which items were available as factory/port options on your car... Toyota offers a number of "factory" goodies that are stock legal. Most Toyota's can use crash bolts for added -camber, and many get an optional rear swaybar.

Shocks, an upgrade here is well worth it.

[Jeff Stuart]

1. Best tire you can afford within class rules.

I just edited my initial post to add that I bought brand new tires just before I discovered autoX, so I want to get my money's worth with those.

Assuming you're on normal OEM tires, then better tires will gain you a good 2 seconds on 60 second course.

All of that other stuff combined will maybe get you 1 second.

It sucks that you just got new tires before you started autoXing, but if you buy a good set now for your car, you'll use up a good percentage of them before the end of the year. Then you can slap the ones you just bought back on when you're selling it and say that it has brand new tires.

[Steve Ekstrand]

Read Jason Isley's post over and over and over again. There is gold in dem der words.....

[Will Kalman]

It's almost June - do you really want to drop hundreds of dollars on parts for a car you intend to replace in just a few months? You're just going to spend a lot of time and hassle sourcing and installing them only to turn around and take it all off, hassle with selling it all, taking a loss, then buying all the same stuff again for your next car.

You can daily-drive 140+ street tires - put 'em on there, burn them up*, and put your current tires back on for the next owner.

* Burn 'em up getting all the seat time and instruction you can - if someone else can beat you by 2+seconds in the same car, you really don't need to buy anything. Remember that improvements to this car only makes this car faster, improvements to the driver will make this car and all future ones faster! When you get the next car, you will be ready to take advantage of it!

[Michael Smith]

Get a second set of wheels and find some used slicks to start on.
That size and bolt pattern 5x100 does not give you many choices. Traklites, but those are pricey.

Base/XR - 16x6.5" (Steel), +39
20lbs
XR/XRS - 16x6.5", +39
19lbs

[Aaron Goldsmith]

It's almost June - do you really want to drop hundreds of dollars on parts for a car you intend to replace in just a few months? You're just going to spend a lot of time and hassle sourcing and installing them only to turn around and take it all off, hassle with selling it all, taking a loss, then buying all the same stuff again for your next car.

You can daily-drive 140+ street tires - put 'em on there, burn them up*, and put your current tires back on for the next owner.

* Burn 'em up getting all the seat time and instruction you can - if someone else can beat you by 2+seconds in the same car, you really don't need to buy anything. Remember that improvements to this car only makes this car faster, improvements to the driver will make this car and all future ones faster! When you get the next car, you will be ready to take advantage of it!

Agreed

[Max Hayter]

Save your money and buy a Miata

[Steve Ekstrand]

Suggesting a miata to a man assumes all kinds of personal things.....

[Theo O.]

Everyone will be happy to offer pointers and even drive your car to give you a target to aim for.

Have KJ or Tom B. drive you car, you'll think someone bolted a turbo to it

[Lily Liu]

It's almost June - do you really want to drop hundreds of dollars on parts for a car you intend to replace in just a few months? You're just going to spend a lot of time and hassle sourcing and installing them only to turn around and take it all off, hassle with selling it all, taking a loss, then buying all the same stuff again for your next car.

You can daily-drive 140+ street tires - put 'em on there, burn them up*, and put your current tires back on for the next owner.

* Burn 'em up getting all the seat time and instruction you can - if someone else can beat you by 2+seconds in the same car, you really don't need to buy anything. Remember that improvements to this car only makes this car faster, improvements to the driver will make this car and all future ones faster! When you get the next car, you will be ready to take advantage of it!

Agreed

+1

You WILL take a loss on the parts that you just put in, no matter how "like new" they are. It's a lot cheaper to get your current tires unmounted and getting some 140+ street tires on for the rest of the season. Then sell the car with whatever tires you have right now and keep the 140+ street tires for later use or for resale.

[Byron Goodman]

Geez, Matt....


I'm thinking some 500+ treadwear tires, really soft shocks and lowering your rev limiter about 1500 RPM should do the trick.

Haha, I can get most of that here at the corner service station if you like (I'm such a giver)

[Tom Berry]

Save your money and buy a Miata

Hey, I happen to have a Miata for sale.

[Tom Berry]

Unless your current airfilter and brakes are in very poor condition, you are unlikely to see any improvement from changing them.

Tires are the number one area where you can gain performance.
Shocks are second.
The sway bar is third.

Improving the driver will make a bigger than all of those combined.
Take whatever money you have budgeted and spend it to run every event you can.
Run both LA and San Diego. Keep your eyes peeled for schools. Ask for help at practices. Everyone will be happy to offer pointers and even drive your car to give you a target to aim for.

I highly recommend the Evolution Driving School.

[Robert Puertas]

Unless your current airfilter and brakes are in very poor condition, you are unlikely to see any improvement from changing them.

Tires are the number one area where you can gain performance.
Shocks are second.
The sway bar is third.

Improving the driver will make a bigger than all of those combined.
Take whatever money you have budgeted and spend it to run every event you can.
Run both LA and San Diego. Keep your eyes peeled for schools. Ask for help at practices. Everyone will be happy to offer pointers and even drive your car to give you a target to aim for.

I highly recommend the Evolution Driving School.

Thanks Tom! We'll get that quote up on the website asap!

[Matt Cipolla]

WOW! Thanks guys...that is a ton of info to absorb!!

My tires right now are 340. 140 tires are expensive, but I did find these 220 tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... toModClar=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should I only be considering 140?

[Jeff Stuart]

WOW! Thanks guys...that is a ton of info to absorb!!

My tires right now are 340. 140 tires are expensive, but I did find these 220 tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... toModClar=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should I only be considering 140?

You should only be considering:

Hankook Ventus RS-3
Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1
Kumho Ecsta XS
Bridgestone RE-11
Toyo Proxes R1R
Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08

Listed in the order I personally would consider them, though that ordering will vary greatly depending on who you ask ;)

[Ron Tsumura]

Since you are in HS, you should also consider the Hankook R compound tire. Z something or other. I don't know anybody using it yet but... }:)

[Matt Cipolla]

Hankook Ventus RS-3
Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1
Kumho Ecsta XS
Bridgestone RE-11
Toyo Proxes R1R
Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08

I found the Dunlops on tirerack with a very tempting price, but I noticed they are 200 treadwear. Is that ok?

Since you are in HS, you should also consider the Hankook R compound tire. Z something or other. I don't know anybody using it yet but... }:)

From what most people have been saying, it seems like my best bet is to just get some better street tires.

I highly recommend the Evolution Driving School.

Definitely going to do that as soon as it's in town. Unfortunately I was on vacation when it was here in March.

Geez, Matt....


I'm thinking some 500+ treadwear tires, really soft shocks and lowering your rev limiter about 1500 RPM should do the trick.

Haha, I can get most of that here at the corner service station if you like (I'm such a giver)

Your words are gold...