Cal Club Autocross Forums

Where can someone get front sway bar built around here?

-Mike

Michael Palero wrote:Where can someone get front sway bar built around here?

-Mike

Not ST or Progress

Might wanna try Hotchkis.

What happened?

Is there a story?

do tell...

Michael Palero wrote:What happened?

Is there a story?

do tell...

Progress has/had a part# for my car. 70 people lined up to buy. Decided not to make anymore due to "lack of demand".
ST said they would do it. Took money and said wait three days. 2 weeks later said, "No."

Going to try an Si bar (Thanks, again, Ashley). We will go to Hotchkis or go custom if we think we need to.

I've made my own hollow 4130 bars with tubing and arm materials from Aircraft Spruce. You can make stiff bars without reheat-treating, but a more flexible bar will develop too much stress. Corner me at an event if you need more info. I can show you the math to pick tubing dimensions for various stiffnesses if you need that.

OK, masters of Stock ...

What are the limits of front bar replacement?

Is end link hardware replacement OK?
How about Bracket replacement? If brackets can be replaced, can they be replaced with ones that are offset, say to give clearance for the new bar?

I know the rules but others have lived through the clarifications, misunderstandings, etc and may have some insight....

Front bars including mounts and end links are "free" in stock. Do what you must do. You just can't butcher the body to fit a bar in ... not that you would want to do that anyway.

Reijo

I believe that as long as they use the stock attachment points you are OK.

And KM and AH don't run HS.

David Avard wrote:I believe that as long as they use the stock attachment points you are OK.

And KM and AH don't run HS.

Not running in a class doesn't stop AH from pushing his agenda.

Curt Luther wrote:

Michael Palero wrote:What happened?

Is there a story?

do tell...

Progress has/had a part# for my car. 70 people lined up to buy. Decided not to make anymore due to "lack of demand".
ST said they would do it. Took money and said wait three days. 2 weeks later said, "No."

Going to try an Si bar (Thanks, again, Ashley). We will go to Hotchkis or go custom if we think we need to.

I have some connections at Progress, If you are still interested I can try for you.
Let me know.

Sebastian Rios wrote:

Curt Luther wrote:

Michael Palero wrote:What happened?

Is there a story?

do tell...

Progress has/had a part# for my car. 70 people lined up to buy. Decided not to make anymore due to "lack of demand".
ST said they would do it. Took money and said wait three days. 2 weeks later said, "No."

Going to try an Si bar (Thanks, again, Ashley). We will go to Hotchkis or go custom if we think we need to.

I have some connections at Progress, If you are still interested I can try for you.
Let me know.

I was actually gonna talk to you about this on Sunday, Seb. Will and I are thinking something more custom, but...

Bill Martin wrote:I've made my own hollow 4130 bars with tubing and arm materials from Aircraft Spruce. You can make stiff bars without reheat-treating, but a more flexible bar will develop too much stress. Corner me at an event if you need more info. I can show you the math to pick tubing dimensions for various stiffnesses if you need that.

I second this. Anti-roll bars are fairly easy to make if you have the tools to do it. The 4130 tubing is cheap, and depending on the geometry you need for your car, it's probably as easy as TIG welding some simple arms onto a straight tube. Then you'll want to have it normalized and tempered to around RC40. That's how we make them for our FSAE cars. Ours are very highly stressed, and I haven't seen one fail yet.

Adam Richter wrote:

Bill Martin wrote:I've made my own hollow 4130 bars with tubing and arm materials from Aircraft Spruce. You can make stiff bars without reheat-treating, but a more flexible bar will develop too much stress. Corner me at an event if you need more info. I can show you the math to pick tubing dimensions for various stiffnesses if you need that.

I second this. Anti-roll bars are fairly easy to make if you have the tools to do it. The 4130 tubing is cheap, and depending on the geometry you need for your car, it's probably as easy as TIG welding some simple arms onto a straight tube. Then you'll want to have it normalized and tempered to around RC40. That's how we make them for our FSAE cars. Ours are very highly stressed, and I haven't seen one fail yet.

Huh, i'd think you'd want to use one of the Silicon/Maganese Spring Steels like 9255 for a swaybar.

David Avard wrote:I believe that as long as they use the stock attachment points you are OK.
:

They don't even have to mount in the stock position. You can drill mounting holes and mount it how you like, as long as it serves no other purpose.

Everything you need: http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_ ... n=category" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

btw the replacement bar does not have to use the OE mounting locations in stock.