Cal Club Autocross Forums

Hey everyone. The clutch on my 92 Miata is starting to bite the dust pretty rapidly. I'm unsure of exactly what type of clutch I'm allowed to get that complies with STS rules. I'm considering the Exedy Stage 1, but again, I'm not sure if STS rules will allow that and if I should get the Exedy oem or Mazda oem kit instead. Also, does anyone know of a good place to put in the new clutch in the west SFV or Conejo Valley area? I know out of the 3: Good, Cheap, Quick I can only pick 2. So I'll pick good and cheap (I still have to get my RE-11's and Slipstreams this month ).

Thanks In Advance.

ST/STS uses STOCK rules for the clutch.

Clutch Discs and Pressure Plates are wear items and may use alternate components than factory OEM, but MUST be OEM type and have NO performance advantage.

In other words, if you're not in the mazdaspeed program yet, get in it immediately or it takes more events find a friend who is in the program and order the stock one through that program.

Steve Ekstrand wrote:ST/STS uses STOCK rules for the clutch.

Clutch Discs and Pressure Plates are wear items and may use alternate components than factory OEM, but MUST be OEM type and have NO performance advantage.

In other words, if you're not in the mazdaspeed program yet, get in it immediately or it takes more events find a friend who is in the program and order the stock one through that program.

BTW, there are a bunch of us in the program. Well worth it.

$500 oem CAT for $300

Saved a bundle on the new bearings, an A arm, HAWK brake pads, etc. etc.

We'll be getting a new clutch pretty soon ourselves. Throwout bearing is starting to make noise ...

I keep getting halfway through the Mazdaspeed registration and then forgetting to do the rest :ibrightdea: . I only have 1 race result out of the required 2. Does anyone know if the provisional membership allows for the discount as well? Also, for the Miata driver's here, I assume that the Mazda clutch is the best quality?

Just call them up ... how can you only have one result (ProSolo)? I thought we've seen you out there a number of times with the Miata?

Mazda Motor Sports
1421 REYNOLDS AVENUE
IRVINE CA
US 92614
800-435-2508

For the price, $49.90 ... I'd say the Mazda clutch for your Miata is pretty decent. Might want to see what else you should change while you're at it. They're very helpful and most very knowledgeable on the phone. You can ask them for suggestions ... throw out bearing, etc.

Ethan West wrote:I keep getting halfway through the Mazdaspeed registration and then forgetting to do the rest :ibrightdea: . I only have 1 race result out of the required 2. Does anyone know if the provisional membership allows for the discount as well? Also, for the Miata driver's here, I assume that the Mazda clutch is the best quality?

You can still get in because you're "building" a car. Send them a photo and the one result.

I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch, but I'm not sure that's legal under Stock rules. The Mazda OEM is of good quality. Be sure to get a throwout bearing.

Bob Beamesderfer wrote:Be sure to get a throwout bearing.

And get the flywheel resurfaced.

Get it aggressively resurfaced & you have a lightened flywheel

Tri-Point... We are in Canoga Park, not too far from you

And, we work with Mazdaspeed Motorsports to offer you their racer net pricing.

818-348-5385

Mako Koiwai wrote:Get it aggressively resurfaced & you have a lightened flywheel

Only legal if the FSM gives you a spec and lists resurfacing as a factory approved repair method.

OK ... but isn't resurfacing SOP when changing a clutch in anyone's book? Is one expected to say finish as lightly as possible ... so that some twit doesn't accidentally overly resurface the flywheel? Of course even an aggressive resurfacing doesn't turn your oem flywheel into a competition Light Weight Fly Wheel.

Mako Koiwai wrote:OK ... but isn't resurfacing SOP when changing a clutch in anyone's book? Is one expected to say finish as lightly as possible ... so that some twit doesn't accidentally overly resurface the flywheel? Of course even an aggressive resurfacing doesn't turn your oem flywheel into a competition Light Weight Fly Wheel.

as long as it's within spec you're fine, if your mechanic makes a mistake and you don't know, it's till you're problem. Just ask Mr. Hollis.

Mako Koiwai wrote:OK ... but isn't resurfacing SOP when changing a clutch in anyone's book? Is one expected to say finish as lightly as possible ... so that some twit doesn't accidentally overly resurface the flywheel? Of course even an aggressive resurfacing doesn't turn your oem flywheel into a competition Light Weight Fly Wheel.

No. Some cars can not be resurfaced, C4 Corvette is a dual-mass unit and can't be done. Other manufacturers just don't list it as an authorized repair method, so even though it may be SOP at Mako's Clutch works, it would not be legal.

I just happen to have a 96' Miata FSM here in my hands, as we prepare to install a new trans in Philip's Miata tomorrow... Mazda says to clean minor scoring and burning with emery paper. "Repair" (I would take that as resurface) major scoring or burning. Max runout is .008in (.2mm), beyond that replace. A minimum thickness is not given in the FSM, but may be cast into the part, just like on a brake rotor.

I always hear that if you use the Mazda OEM clutch, don't use a Mazda pilot bearing (if you choose to replace it). Go to your local auto parts store and get their no-name one. Supposedly, the Mazda one isn't very good.

Pat.

Pat O'Neal wrote:I always hear that if you use the Mazda OEM clutch, don't use a Mazda pilot bearing (if you choose to replace it). Go to your local auto parts store and get their no-name one. Supposedly, the Mazda one isn't very good.

Pat.

I dunno. Following the retarded logic of the rule book, the "performance" benefit of using a non oem bearing that doesn't fail all the time would be illegal. Similar to changing rod bolts or civic head bolts.

Marshall Grice wrote:

Pat O'Neal wrote:I always hear that if you use the Mazda OEM clutch, don't use a Mazda pilot bearing (if you choose to replace it). Go to your local auto parts store and get their no-name one. Supposedly, the Mazda one isn't very good.

Pat.

I dunno. Following the retarded logic of the rule book, the "performance" benefit of using a non oem bearing that doesn't fail all the time would be illegal. Similar to changing rod bolts or civic head bolts.

Yeah, they consider reliability upgrades a performance gain.

Except you eventually chase the least reliable point all over the car until you've rebuilt the entire thing. How do you stop that? With a "substitute fasteners only" allowance, of course!

Oh, and pilot bearings.

And driveshafts (or Porsche/S2000 axles).

And head gaskets.

And connecting rods.

EVO clutches

Suby wheel bearings ...

Fender Liners! :unimpressed:

Pat O'Neal wrote:I always hear that if you use the Mazda OEM clutch, don't use a Mazda pilot bearing (if you choose to replace it). Go to your local auto parts store and get their no-name one. Supposedly, the Mazda one isn't very good.

Pat.

The pilot bearing should be installed using Loctite, otherwise the outer race can spin. Rather noisy.

Bob Beamesderfer wrote:The pilot bearing should be installed using Loctite, otherwise the outer race can spin. Rather noisy.

Is that an authorized repair/installation method? LOL, rules lawyering is fun!

Marshall Grice wrote:rod bolts or civic head bolts.

*cough* cryogenic treatment *cough*

"I'm sorry, sir, the SCCA metalurgist says those bolts don't show the factory grain pattern."

I had my motor blessed by a Yanomami Shaman. Cost me $30 and a bottle of cheap wine, but now my motor has spiritual grounding and Kenny's does not.

Should have just gotten one of Reverend Peter Popoff's Prayer Clothes, Steve

Ok, so I just emailed all my registration info into Mazda. Mako, did you get such a low price for the clutch from Mazda Motorsports?

Nicole, bringing it into Tri Point sounds awesome. I will definitely call in the next couple days.