Cal Club Autocross Forums

So, my car is still a pig.
After all these weight saving tricks and it’s 2125 lbs (or 275 hoosiers and 15x9 6ul wheels - 32.8 lbs per wheel).
All these:
without Hardtop or soft top
with Kevlar front end (only 12lbs for the whole front end – bumper and fenders)
with 93 dash
No a/c
No radio
stock radiator (not the heavier bigger units)
short exhaust

but with
Airbag (~5lbs)
Power steering (~10lbs?)
Tow hitch (~12lbs)
Lightweight – but not the lightest weight seats (?? Lbs)
Stock 94 brakes
94 alternator (I believe the 1.6 – 93 is lighter) (2 lbs)
Front triangular bar from MOSS
¼ of gas or less

I’m skeptical about what else can help cut down the weight from the front end of the car.

The picture below is with street tires (which are 4 lbs heavier per corner)

Pic with my fat ass inside plus the stock tires (basically removed 16 lbs for the race tires).

On top of that, I have seen stock cars with a better cross weight.

turbo kit probably weighs min 50lbs.

Jason Isley BS RX8 wrote:On top of that, I have seen stock cars with a better cross weight.

You know it's a bit funny but with the Hard Top on the car and myself at the driver's seat the cross weights were much better...
It's very weird that the hard top moves the weight distribution by 2-3% at the front instead at the rear. If you leave the top at a flat surface it stays with the rear end on the ground so I would think that the weight will go at the back... }:)

Btw does anyone knows what's the meaning of the Bite value at the bottom right of the screen?

Christos Adam wrote:Btw does anyone knows what's the meaning of the Bite value at the bottom right of the screen?

Applicable in circle-track.

Christos Adam wrote:

Jason Isley BS RX8 wrote:On top of that, I have seen stock cars with a better cross weight.

You know it's a bit funny but with the Hard Top on the car and myself at the driver's seat the cross weights were much better...
It's very weird that the hard top moves the weight distribution by 2-3% at the front instead at the rear. If you leave the top at a flat surface it stays with the rear end on the ground so I would think that the weight will go at the back... }:)

Probably has more to do with the bracing in the top of the hardtop than the sides. sides are mostly fiberglass/composite whereas the frame is mostly on the outsides/cross braced within the topmost portion. Also bracketry/bracing for the latches at the front.

Also, is it possible you're still running a lead-acid battery?

Of the items you list still on the car, I'd start with the Moss front brace. If class rules allow, you could de-power the steering rack, just be sure to do it right unless you feel like pushing hydraulic fluid without the pump to assist. What about the steering wheel? Battery? Rear sway bar? When you took the A/C out, you did remove the compressor bracket from the side of the engine, right?

I heard that the 1994 [and maybe the earlier cars] was [were] shipped from the factory with all of the sub-harnesses in place because it made installation of the options quicker, port-side or at the dealer. If there is official Mazda documentation of that, you could strip those wires out under update/backdate if that's class legal. But I heard that bit about the wiring on the Intertubes, so it's worth what I paid for it.