Cal Club Autocross Forums

Transmission in my race car works just fine during regular driving, even on road course like Willow or Auto Club, however I can never get it to go back into second gear after shifting into third during autocross ???? It just will not go back into second unless I bring the car back down to almost a stop. I left a ton of time out there yesterday because of this.

Any ideas?

Bad Syncros. Commonly happens to 2nd gear because thats what we down shift into most (right turn at an intersection).

For now, try double clutching it.

Jay W

Switch to Redline MT90 ... a friction modified, ie. added, MT lube that allows syncros to work/work more easily. Transformed Karen's Miata tranny that we thought would need to be rebuilt ... made it possible to get into first without coming to a full stop in the Suby.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7

A similar product is GM or Penzoil Syncromesh MT fluids: http://www.stealth316.com/2-pennzoil-synchromesh.htm

Shift linkage binding? Are you shifting while the steering wheel is straight?

Eric Clements wrote:Shift linkage binding? Are you shifting while the steering wheel is straight?

Thanks Mako, I'll give one of those a try.

Eric, I believe this happens either straight or while turning. Is there a way for me to check the shift linkage?

Theo O. wrote:Eric, I believe this happens either straight or while turning. Is there a way for me to check the shift linkage?

It's not so much the linkage being bad/worn as the engine/transmission twisting in the chassis.

So new mounts would be needed ?

How many miles on the tranny?

Get an auto...





i kid, i kid! Good luck - try double-clutching first - if that works, you won't have to worry about shift linkage, correct? Then it's just a matter of synchros & fluids & $$$.

or get an auto...

I agree with the people saying to eliminate the twist, and I also think you should replace the fluid with Redline MT-90 (you need to buy two quarts.)

I recommend these motor mounts if you don't want to go with solid:
http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworl ... -p930.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And for transmission mounts (again, if you don't go solid on the motor mounts):
http://store.bimmerworld.com/rogue-engi ... -p406.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And while you're in doing those things, you should probably also replace items 2 & 4 here (being sure to check for your actual model and production date at RealOEM):
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=25&fg=05" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

While you're under there, check the condition of item 1 here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=26&fg=10" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That last item doesn't have anything to do with shifting, but it's a pretty common replacement item and if it lets go during a run, you definitely won't be setting your fast time...

Mike

Dumb question for you Theo...are you pulling the shifter too far over to the left? It's fairly easy when you're trying to snap a quick 3-2 downshift, while the car is turning to the right, to hang on to the shift lever a little and pull it past the detent all the way over to where reverse is. Unfortunately, it doesn't take too much additional pressure to get you well past the gate for 2nd gear. I've done this a couple times on Elliot's e36 since the detents on the e36 are very slight and wear over time.

Doug Rowse wrote:Dumb question for you Theo...are you pulling the shifter too far over to the left? It's fairly easy when you're trying to snap a quick 3-2 downshift, while the car is turning to the right, to hang on to the shift lever a little and pull it past the detent all the way over to where reverse is. Unfortunately, it doesn't take too much additional pressure to get you well past the gate for 2nd gear. I've done this a couple times on Elliot's e36 since the detents on the e36 are very slight and wear over time.

Doug, not a dumb question at all, you know I keep thinking about that too. I'm doing the next practice, hopefully someone can hop in my car for a lap and let me know if I'm really just that nuts.

Mike, thanks for the detailed list. I'm going to start checking those items off one by one. Definitely going to change the fluid like you and Mako suggested since I haven't done so in a while. I suck at preventive maintainance.

Can I get Redline MT-90 locally?

There are a couple of places in the Pasadena area that sell it ... you can do a Location Finder in the RedLine web site, and as I mentioned, GM and Pennzoil synchromesh is a similar product. You're basically looking for a Friction Modified Manual Transmission fluid ... of around 90 weight.

We have personally used the Redline MT-90 product in three of our vehicles to our great satisfaction

Mako to wrote:There are a couple of places in the Pasadena area that sell it ... you can do a Location Finder in the RedLine web site, and as I mentioned, GM and Pennzoil synchromesh is a similar product. You're basically looking for a Friction Modified Manual Transmission fluid ... of around 90 weight.

We have personally used the Redline MT-90 product in three of our vehicles to our great satisfaction

Mako, I went back up to you post and saw the link. I'm just going to order it online.

This is what I want right? 2 of them?

50304 MT-90 75W90 GL-4 - quart

Yes, but I don't know how much fluid your bmw needs

Mako to wrote:Yes, but I don't know how much fluid your bmw needs

2qts maximum.

Can I get Redline MT-90 locally?

Steve at Racing Lifestyles carries Red Line products. They are also listed on his web site. He may be at the next event at El Toro.
My sponsor, GRC in Mission Viejo, carries it and Steve at C2 Motorsports, who races with us, also carries it.
Please buy from those who race with and support us.

Theo O. wrote:

Doug Rowse wrote:Dumb question for you Theo...are you pulling the shifter too far over to the left? It's fairly easy when you're trying to snap a quick 3-2 downshift, while the car is turning to the right, to hang on to the shift lever a little and pull it past the detent all the way over to where reverse is. Unfortunately, it doesn't take too much additional pressure to get you well past the gate for 2nd gear. I've done this a couple times on Elliot's e36 since the detents on the e36 are very slight and wear over time.

Doug, not a dumb question at all, you know I keep thinking about that too. I'm doing the next practice, hopefully someone can hop in my car for a lap and let me know if I'm really just that nuts.

Mike, thanks for the detailed list. I'm going to start checking those items off one by one. Definitely going to change the fluid like you and Mako suggested since I haven't done so in a while. I suck at preventive maintainance.

Can I get Redline MT-90 locally?

I'd be happy to ride with you Theo and/or give your car a lap at the practice.

Thanks Doug.

I changed this transmission oil over the weekend. One more thing I now know how to do

And ?

The three times I went to a friction modified MT fluid like MT-90, it was immediately apparent and a noticeable improvement

Mako to wrote:And ?

The three times I went to a friction modified MT fluid like MT-90, it was immediately apparent and a noticeable improvement

It's like magic, not one missed shift up or down

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Theo O. wrote:

Mako to wrote:And ?

The three times I went to a friction modified MT fluid like MT-90, it was immediately apparent and a noticeable improvement

It's like magic, not one missed shift up or down

Thanks for all the advice guys.

And you won your class giving PSCC 100 points for the Pick-a-Team championship!