Rules Question
Moderator: Mike Simanyi
- Sebastian Rios
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Rules Question
The suspension fork that connects the lower A-arm to the shock on my STS Civic is stripped where the top bolt goes in. Can I re-tap it and use a bigger bolt to fix it?
The first section of the Stock category has this
Alternate components which are normally expendable and
considered replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings,
seals, gaskets, filters, belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors,
clutch discs, pressure plates, suspension bushings, drivetrain
mounts, etc.) may be used provided they are essentially identical to
the standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size, hardness, weight,
material etc.), are used in the same location, and provide no
performance benefit.
But does the fact that the new bolt is not essentially identical mean I have to get a new fork?
The first section of the Stock category has this
Alternate components which are normally expendable and
considered replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings,
seals, gaskets, filters, belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors,
clutch discs, pressure plates, suspension bushings, drivetrain
mounts, etc.) may be used provided they are essentially identical to
the standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size, hardness, weight,
material etc.), are used in the same location, and provide no
performance benefit.
But does the fact that the new bolt is not essentially identical mean I have to get a new fork?
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Re: Rules Question
Suspension fork?
Apart from that, the fix should be legal. Don't know whether it is.
Apart from that, the fix should be legal. Don't know whether it is.
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Re: Rules Question
Use the appropriate-size helicoil to retain the stock bolt. McMaster Carr sells the components individually or in kits. If you have a McFadden-Dale location nearby, they'll have it too.
Mike
Mike
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Re: Rules Question
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Item 12&13
Available new for $64
I think this is what Seb is talking about. Its listed seperate from the front shock so I don't think it can be altered. I'm not 100% on that though. Certainly wouldn't be something I'd protest. And I can't conceive of a performance benefit.
Still, you know how our class is.....
Item 12&13
Available new for $64
I think this is what Seb is talking about. Its listed seperate from the front shock so I don't think it can be altered. I'm not 100% on that though. Certainly wouldn't be something I'd protest. And I can't conceive of a performance benefit.
Still, you know how our class is.....
Dr. Conemangler
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2015 Wildcat Honda F600
aka The Malefic One
2015 Wildcat Honda F600
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Re: Rules Question
Or like Mike said.....
Dr. Conemangler
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Re: Rules Question
That might just work, do you think I'll have to bring the whole part or just the bolt to get the right size?Mike Simanyi wrote:Use the appropriate-size helicoil to retain the stock bolt. McMaster Carr sells the components individually or in kits. If you have a McFadden-Dale location nearby, they'll have it too.
Mike
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Re: Rules Question
Yeah that's the part. It's stripped where bolt #16 goes in. Thanks for the schematic. I might just get a new one.Steve Ekstrand wrote:http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM
Item 12&13
Available new for $64
I think this is what Seb is talking about. Its listed seperate from the front shock so I don't think it can be altered. I'm not 100% on that though. Certainly wouldn't be something I'd protest. And I can't conceive of a performance benefit.
Still, you know how our class is.....
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Re: Rules Question
The way it works is you basically tap the female threads to a larger size, then the coil threads provide an inside diameter sized appropriately for your bolt.
I think you'll need to know the bolt size and thread pitch, plus the depth of the threads. I haven't used one of these in years but I seem to recall the kits include a drill bit and tap to prepare the threads for the coil. You'll need some cutting oil as well. Work slowly and carefully and you should be good.
After the threads are recut the rest is easy. Thread the coil onto the bolt and thread the entire assembly into place. As you tighten the nut it will break the end piece of the coil - like a little tail that the bolt stops on, preventing it from being threaded further - and the bolt will continue to thread into place.
Although for $64 you might be happier with the new arm.
Mike
I think you'll need to know the bolt size and thread pitch, plus the depth of the threads. I haven't used one of these in years but I seem to recall the kits include a drill bit and tap to prepare the threads for the coil. You'll need some cutting oil as well. Work slowly and carefully and you should be good.
After the threads are recut the rest is easy. Thread the coil onto the bolt and thread the entire assembly into place. As you tighten the nut it will break the end piece of the coil - like a little tail that the bolt stops on, preventing it from being threaded further - and the bolt will continue to thread into place.
Although for $64 you might be happier with the new arm.
Mike
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Re: Rules Question
It has previously been argued/agreed, that part is "free" in ST/SP under the shock mounting allowance. Do whatever you want with it.
Re: Rules Question
Is it just late Friday afternoon goofiness, or did that description sounds vaguely pornographic? I was humming a "bwah bwicka bwah bwah" soundtrack to myself as I read it. Oh well...off to take a cold shower.Mike Simanyi wrote:The way it works is you basically tap the female threads to a larger size, then the coil threads provide an inside diameter sized appropriately for your bolt.
I think you'll need to know the bolt size and thread pitch, plus the depth of the threads. I haven't used one of these in years but I seem to recall the kits include a drill bit and tap to prepare the threads for the coil. You'll need some cutting oil as well. Work slowly and carefully and you should be good.
After the threads are recut the rest is easy. Thread the coil onto the bolt and thread the entire assembly into place. As you tighten the nut it will break the end piece of the coil - like a little tail that the bolt stops on, preventing it from being threaded further - and the bolt will continue to thread into place.
==============
Oversteer is better than understeer because you don't see the tree you're hitting.
Oversteer is better than understeer because you don't see the tree you're hitting.
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Re: Rules Question
I suggest the use of anti-seize.Kurt Rahn wrote:Is it just late Friday afternoon goofiness, or did that description sounds vaguely pornographic? I was humming a "bwah bwicka bwah bwah" soundtrack to myself as I read it. Oh well...off to take a cold shower.Mike Simanyi wrote:The way it works is you basically tap the female threads to a larger size, then the coil threads provide an inside diameter sized appropriately for your bolt.
I think you'll need to know the bolt size and thread pitch, plus the depth of the threads. I haven't used one of these in years but I seem to recall the kits include a drill bit and tap to prepare the threads for the coil. You'll need some cutting oil as well. Work slowly and carefully and you should be good.
After the threads are recut the rest is easy. Thread the coil onto the bolt and thread the entire assembly into place. As you tighten the nut it will break the end piece of the coil - like a little tail that the bolt stops on, preventing it from being threaded further - and the bolt will continue to thread into place.
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Re: Rules Question
+1Jason Rhoades wrote:It has previously been argued/agreed, that part is "free" in ST/SP under the shock mounting allowance. Do whatever you want with it.
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Re: Rules Question
Meh...too much hassle, I ordered one at my local stealership it'll be here tomorrow. My time and frustration is worth more than $65.
BTW they had a CR on sale for only 32K. It had the C&C junk though (A/C Radio etc.).
BTW they had a CR on sale for only 32K. It had the C&C junk though (A/C Radio etc.).
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Re: Rules Question
yay good news for me... one less item to spend money on. Thanks!Jason Rhoades wrote:It has previously been argued/agreed, that part is "free" in ST/SP under the shock mounting allowance. Do whatever you want with it.
http://www.osgiken.net
4 BSP- 2019 Mazda ND Miata - 2001 SSM Honda S2000
OS Giken / Bride / ShaftWorks USA
4 BSP- 2019 Mazda ND Miata - 2001 SSM Honda S2000
OS Giken / Bride / ShaftWorks USA
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Re: Rules Question
Jason Rhoades wrote:It has previously been argued/agreed, that part is "free" in ST/SP under the shock mounting allowance. Do whatever you want with it.
Hmmm... Like craft it out of aluminum!
Dr. Conemangler
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Re: Rules Question
Color? You know how I likes my wimmenz...Sebastian Rios wrote: BTW they had a CR on sale for only 32K. It had the C&C junk though (A/C Radio etc.).
Rev. Dr. Curtis J. Luther, Esq., M.D.
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Re: Rules Question
Old Banana: Yellow w/black top.
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Re: Rules Question
Actually, that's "Soul Fried Rice" at the Cherry Patch in Pahrump...Sebastian Rios wrote:Old Banana: Yellow w/black top.
Rev. Dr. Curtis J. Luther, Esq., M.D.
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Re: Rules Question
I don't get it...You'll have to explain it in real life because I'm sure it's not appropriate here. ;)Curt Luther wrote:Actually, that's "Soul Fried Rice" at the Cherry Patch in Pahrump...Sebastian Rios wrote:Old Banana: Yellow w/black top.
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Re: Rules Question
Its a two girl special Seb....
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Re: Rules Question
I just got it...