I am having trouble getting a water tight seal between the motor/pump and the part that holds the basket/strainer. 6 bolts and a rubber "ribbon" washer that sits in a groove in the basket/strainer and seals against the pump/motor. A flat maybe 1/16 inch contact area (not a great design).
I have used GE 100% silicone (I) and GE 100% silicone (II). My local pool guy says these are all a PITA to seal because of the design.
The "groove" is a little too deep in one section, thus causing the contact to be weak there. Leak is small but steady.
I was thinking another gasket maker would do the job, maybe like automotive, water pump stuff. But these are some plastic composite material housings that have to go together.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Steve A or anyone who works on pool eq.
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Re: Steve A or anyone who works on pool eq.
A bucket to catch the leaking water, so you can put it back in the pool. 

Re: Steve A or anyone who works on pool eq.
You didn`t mention what make of pump it was. It makes a difference.
Many times the leak is a shaft seal. It`s the seal behind the impellor. There are many different ones ( PS 100, 200 201,1000. etc depending on the pump ).
They leak due to running the pump dry for an extended period of time, or the bearings might be going bad in the motor causing the shaft to move sideways. Or it`s just old.
Do you see any corosion behind the hair lent pot and the motor?
If so it might be time for a new pump.
I`m a C53 (Swimming pool contractor) Let me know if I can help.
Many times the leak is a shaft seal. It`s the seal behind the impellor. There are many different ones ( PS 100, 200 201,1000. etc depending on the pump ).
They leak due to running the pump dry for an extended period of time, or the bearings might be going bad in the motor causing the shaft to move sideways. Or it`s just old.
Do you see any corosion behind the hair lent pot and the motor?
If so it might be time for a new pump.
I`m a C53 (Swimming pool contractor) Let me know if I can help.
Re: Steve A or anyone who works on pool eq.
Thanks for the post John.John Ward wrote:You didn`t mention what make of pump it was. It makes a difference.
Many times the leak is a shaft seal. It`s the seal behind the impellor. There are many different ones ( PS 100, 200 201,1000. etc depending on the pump ).
They leak due to running the pump dry for an extended period of time, or the bearings might be going bad in the motor causing the shaft to move sideways. Or it`s just old.
Do you see any corosion behind the hair lent pot and the motor?
If so it might be time for a new pump.
I`m a C53 (Swimming pool contractor) Let me know if I can help.
It's a Hayward rebranded by Cali Pools & Spas. All seals (including the ceramic 2 piece seal) have been renewed. It's 10 years old. Runs fine except for the small leak, most people would not bother with the leak, but I hate leaks.
You have to trust me that the leak is exactly as I describe in the first post. It's a (known) bad design and the rubber simply does not stick out enough at top due to the depth of the groove it sits in. I just need a recommendation for a better gasket maker/sealer than the silicone. It's almost sealed now.
Re: Steve A or anyone who works on pool eq.
100% silicone is about the best sealant because it allows for expansion and contraction.
As you said Hayward had a poor design, and California Pools bought into it. ( they used to use Sta-rite)
The pump was made with a material called Noryl which is an ABS/PVC offshoot. The eventuallity is the thru many years of expansion and contraction, there is a built in failure.
At the joint of the valute and the backing plate of the motor, you have a flow rate of 90-120 G.P.M.
depending on what size pump you have. So your fighting two things at once, the expansion of the joint and the point where the highest GPM happens.
Have you concidered the new variable speed pump? It will adapt it`s flow to your need. (Pool cleaner, Solar, Heater, Etc.) And save you energy. Pentair (the old Purex) has a good one, as well as Jandy.
Hope this helps
As you said Hayward had a poor design, and California Pools bought into it. ( they used to use Sta-rite)
The pump was made with a material called Noryl which is an ABS/PVC offshoot. The eventuallity is the thru many years of expansion and contraction, there is a built in failure.
At the joint of the valute and the backing plate of the motor, you have a flow rate of 90-120 G.P.M.
depending on what size pump you have. So your fighting two things at once, the expansion of the joint and the point where the highest GPM happens.
Have you concidered the new variable speed pump? It will adapt it`s flow to your need. (Pool cleaner, Solar, Heater, Etc.) And save you energy. Pentair (the old Purex) has a good one, as well as Jandy.
Hope this helps
Re: Steve A or anyone who works on pool eq.
Thanks John,John Ward wrote:100% silicone is about the best sealant because it allows for expansion and contraction.
As you said Hayward had a poor design, and California Pools bought into it. ( they used to use Sta-rite)
The pump was made with a material called Noryl which is an ABS/PVC offshoot. The eventuallity is the thru many years of expansion and contraction, there is a built in failure.
At the joint of the valute and the backing plate of the motor, you have a flow rate of 90-120 G.P.M.
depending on what size pump you have. So your fighting two things at once, the expansion of the joint and the point where the highest GPM happens.
Have you concidered the new variable speed pump? It will adapt it`s flow to your need. (Pool cleaner, Solar, Heater, Etc.) And save you energy. Pentair (the old Purex) has a good one, as well as Jandy.
Hope this helps
Just gonna get a few more years out of it now. If I had known it would be hard to reseal I'd have put new in, now I've got about $80. of parts in the old pump. Live & learn.
Anyone else have a sealant suggestion besides silicone for this (water pressure) application?
I think I need something that sets up a little firmer than silicone but still stays flexible enough for the (motor) heat & vibration. Maybe I will cut a thin additional gasket out of something & back up the rubber oem one. Should not be this hard with all the new high tech gasket material they have these days.
