Help me built a good V-mount IC on my 94

[Christos Adam]

Hi guys

I recently removed the A/C system out of the car and now I'm flirting with the idea of designing a V-mount for my miata.

I can probably use my current intercooler but maybe it's a good time to change it.
Here are a few questions that I have for you:
a) In my old set up I always see 88-97C intake temperatures - is that a sign that I might need larger IC?
b) Is a good design V-mount always better than a front mount design?
c) Is there a formula that help me calculate the right size IC for my application?

Thanks
Chris

[John Coffey]

Here are some turbo calculators to help answer questions 1 and 3.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... ators.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Reading quesiton number 2: No.

[Will Kalman]

where 1 = q and 3 = z

and q = $ and z = (

and $ = a and ( = c

;)

[Bob Beamesderfer]

where 1 = q and 3 = z

and q = $ and z = (

and $ = a and ( = c

;)

Now can you write a differential equation to explain that?

[Christos Adam]

Here are some turbo calculators to help answer questions 1 and 3.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... ators.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Reading quesiton number 2: No.

Thanks John

[Christos Adam]

OK which IC set up would have less pressure drop out of the two pictured below?
From what I read regarding Intercoolers it seems to me that the second set up should be better (since the air has to travel smaller path through the IC small tubes) but the overall piping will be longer ....

[John Coffey]

Do the math on the actual surface area of the heat exchanger and pick the unit with the largest. Unless you're actually going to test and measure the pressure drop between the two installs as an academic exercise you're focusing on the wrong thing.

[Steve Lepper]

Chris, before you start moving the intercooler, do you have everything in the front of your car properly ducted? Most Miata intercooler installations I see are not optimized for maximum pressure drop across the cooler/radiator. Make sure you're not wasting any of the incoming air, and (just as important) exhausting it efficiently.

[Mako Koiwai]

You can make a nice IC sprayer using your window washer reservoir and pump ... would it be legal? ... what class is this for?

[Sebastian Rios]

Since you can't turbo a miata until SSM, I'd say it's there. Pretty sure I/C WATER spray would be legal as long as it doesn't leave fluid on course.

[Christos Adam]

Thank you guys.

Mako as Sebastian said, this is SSM (previous SM2 class) - but I'm pretty sure spraying water on the IC during the course won't be legal

John my main goal is to minimize the - already minimal- turbo lag - so I think I'm on the right track by reducing the necessary pipping and trying to find the IC with minimal pressure drop.

Steve, my current set up is a Front Mount Intercooler from Trackdogracing - with very good ducting.
If and when I do the V-mount I will definitely spend a fair amount of time to properly duct it.

By the way, what would be the ideal material for ducting?
I was thinking of thin aluminum sheets welded together - something like Matt's car but I'm thinking that there might be something lighter out there....

[Sebastian Rios]

Don't forget that whatever you solution, you can't take material out of the bumper beam. You can go after it with a BFH (big #$@&ing hammer), but that's about it.

[Christos Adam]

Don't forget that whatever you solution, you can't take material out of the bumper beam. You can go after it with a BFH (big #$@&ing hammer), but that's about it.

Good point Sebastian, I knew that but didn't realize that it was missing from the above picture until now - that explains why it looks so clean and efficient

[Steve Lepper]

Don't forget that whatever you solution, you can't take material out of the bumper beam. You can go after it with a BFH (big #$@&ing hammer), but that's about it.

And, therein lies your problem with a good v-mount setup. Remember, cars like Matt's are not built to any rulebook, so they do pretty much whatever they want. Something you can do is modify or replace the front bumper cover to enlarge/change the opening (rule 16.1-I) and add an opening above the bumper bar to get more air.
Think outside the box: since 16.1-D says "Drivetrain and related components (which would include cooling system) are unrestricted, except..." (and then there is no restriction mentioned for cooling system), who says the radiator has to stay in the stock location, be the stock shape, or even be just one radiator.

Regarding building material, I use thin (around 18ga.) sheet aluminum for just about everything except my undertrays: those need to be stronger because they have to withstand impact, and are often used as a splitter mounting point. Proper use of bends and bead-rolls give thin sheets plenty of rigidity.

[Christos Adam]

Don't forget that whatever you solution, you can't take material out of the bumper beam. You can go after it with a BFH (big #$@&ing hammer), but that's about it.

And, therein lies your problem with a good v-mount setup. Remember, cars like Matt's are not built to any rulebook, so they do pretty much whatever they want. Something you can do is modify or replace the front bumper cover to enlarge/change the opening (rule 16.1-I) and add an opening above the bumper bar to get more air.
Think outside the box: since 16.1-D says "Drivetrain and related components (which would include cooling system) are unrestricted, except..." (and then there is no restriction mentioned for cooling system), who says the radiator has to stay in the stock location, be the stock shape, or even be just one radiator.

Regarding building material, I use thin (around 18ga.) sheet aluminum for just about everything except my undertrays: those need to be stronger because they have to withstand impact, and are often used as a splitter mounting point. Proper use of bends and bead-rolls give thin sheets plenty of rigidity.

Thanks Steve!