"Sticky" Studs ...

[Mako Koiwai]

A couple of the Vette studs are getting a bit balky. Is it worth it to run a die over them to clean them up ... and use new lug nuts?

I've replaced front studs on the WRX before. The rears tend to be a bitch and one of the Vette studs is in the rear.

[Michael Wood]

I had some galling problems with the studs on my Z06, also. Chasing them to clean up is good, then add a little (like, very little) anti seize to the first threads of the lug nuts. Yes, many will say (rightfully) that it messes with the torque values, but I've never had a problem with either fasteners staying torqued or galling since starting this practice. I do exercise some discretion/feel when torquing, however. We change wheels so much, it seems like a reasonable practice.

[Bob Beamesderfer]

I had some galling problems with the studs on my Z06, also. Chasing them to clean up is good, then add a little (like, very little) anti seize to the first threads of the lug nuts. Yes, many will say (rightfully) that it messes with the torque values, but I've never had a problem with either fasteners staying torqued or galling since starting this practice. I do exercise some discretion/feel when torquing, however. We change wheels so much, it seems like a reasonable practice.

The torque value doesn't change. Resistance to vibration does.

That said, I've had no issues with using anti-seize on wheel studs.

[Q V]

mine stopped doing that after I started using anti-seize. i didn't need to run a die through them or anything.

[Bob Pl]

I would REPLACE all the lug nuts, use (a little) anti sieze (also where the nut contacts the wheel) and if you need to chase one or two studs ok, but don't go running a die on all of them just to make the nuts run on easier.

A better idea is replace all the lugs with ARP lugs. OEM lugs & nuts do not hold up all that well.

Here is what happens when you use a lug nut too many times (OEM nut).

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p70/ ... G_1391.jpg

[Michael Wood]

I had some galling problems with the studs on my Z06, also. Chasing them to clean up is good, then add a little (like, very little) anti seize to the first threads of the lug nuts. Yes, many will say (rightfully) that it messes with the torque values, but I've never had a problem with either fasteners staying torqued or galling since starting this practice. I do exercise some discretion/feel when torquing, however. We change wheels so much, it seems like a reasonable practice.

The torque value doesn't change. Resistance to vibration does.

That said, I've had no issues with using anti-seize on wheel studs.

I should have said "measured torque values". Anti seize serves as a lubricant, lessening friction. With less friction on the threads, the torque values increase. So, 85 ft/lbs measured may actually be torqued at a true 95 ft/lbs, as an example. That's why (my understanding) SAE torque tables give a dry and lubricated value for a specific fastener size/type.

Applying anti seize on the taper of the lug, where it mates with the wheel, is not a good idea. Evidently, it increases axial load and stress on the stud a bunch.

[Bob Pl]

"Applying anti seize on the taper of the lug, where it mates with the wheel, is not a good idea. Evidently, it increases axial load and stress on the stud a bunch."

This, unfortunately, is where the stock Vette rims will gall to the lug nut, eventually eroding the lug nut conical seating area on the wheel.

I have not had a problem using anti sieze here with 2 Vettes & a dozen sets of rims, the only thing that happened is the galling stopped.

Do you have another suggestion to eliminate the galling in that area? I'd be interested in trying an alternative if you have one.



It is already established that the torque spec is adjusted under these techniques from clean/dry to lubed.

[Michael Wood]

^I don't have any other ideas about preventing the galling at the taper to wheel nut recess on the Corvette rims, ex anti seize or some other lubricant. I'd guess, given the amount of excess clamping force and the generally robust fastener sizing used for keeping wheels on cars (think about how little control the manufacturer has over users changing tires in daily use, shops that set impact guns on "stun" when doing their work etc vs. liability...yeah, I'd bet there's a lot of squish room) that using a little lubricant on those surfaces is not nearly "mission critical". I probably overstated things when I said it wasn't a good idea, giving it a little more thought.

The only point to be made is that the taper to recess interface is where the majority of friction occurs (which is where the majority of torque value is derived) and lubricating that area makes it much easier to get too many turns/stretch into the threads, making it that much easier to break the stud. I'm no mechanical engineer (by a long shot), but I think that makes sense.

[Bob Beamesderfer]

I had some galling problems with the studs on my Z06, also. Chasing them to clean up is good, then add a little (like, very little) anti seize to the first threads of the lug nuts. Yes, many will say (rightfully) that it messes with the torque values, but I've never had a problem with either fasteners staying torqued or galling since starting this practice. I do exercise some discretion/feel when torquing, however. We change wheels so much, it seems like a reasonable practice.

The torque value doesn't change. Resistance to vibration does.

That said, I've had no issues with using anti-seize on wheel studs.

I should have said "measured torque values". Anti seize serves as a lubricant, lessening friction. With less friction on the threads, the torque values increase. So, 85 ft/lbs measured may actually be torqued at a true 95 ft/lbs, as an example. That's why (my understanding) SAE torque tables give a dry and lubricated value for a specific fastener size/type.

Applying anti seize on the taper of the lug, where it mates with the wheel, is not a good idea. Evidently, it increases axial load and stress on the stud a bunch.

I probably have that chart in a book somewhere. Makes sense that reduced friction would allow the an equal force to tighten a fastener to a higher value.

[Bill Martin]

I use lotsa anti-seize both on the threads and on the nut shank. When I have tapered lug nuts I coat those too.

I use less than specified torque and have discussed it with the tech support guy at ARP - we're on the same page.

Only downside I experience with any lube on the lug nuts is if they fall to the ground they pick up grains of sand etc. That and the A/S gets all over your finger tips and from there to your clothes. I try to set them on a rag to keep them clean, and then use the rag to get me clean.

-- Bill

[Bob Pl]

I use lotsa anti-seize both on the threads and on the nut shank. When I have tapered lug nuts I coat those too.

I use less than specified torque and have discussed it with the tech support guy at ARP - we're on the same page.

Only downside I experience with any lube on the lug nuts is if they fall to the ground they pick up grains of sand etc. That and the A/S gets all over your finger tips and from there to your clothes. I try to set them on a rag to keep them clean, and then use the rag to get me clean.

-- Bill

What do you torque to Bill?



I've been going 90-92.

Here is a link to ARP, most will agree they are an authorative source of info on fasteners.

http://arp-bolts.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;