Merry Christmas

Moderator: Mike Simanyi
They say they found evidence of a tuning device on my car, via a control number mismatch on the ECU. This is true but the car was running stock tune, as required in STU, and the device was there for datalogging purposes only, a means of me trying to PREVENT engine failure. Ironic. Anyway, once they found that, they googled me and found my autoX results. Racing/competitive driving/whatever you want to label it is explicity excluded in the warranty. So, with the two of these issues combined, they are not budging, no matter what I say.George Schilling wrote:I'm typically not one to accept defeat on an issue like this. I assume they denied warranty coverage. What was the reason?
also assuming the block is still in one piece it's not really that tough to repair a spun bearing. you really shouldn't need a whole new engine unless you punched a hole in the side of the block. post up some pics if you have any.Steve Ekstrand wrote: Next.... Very few racers would pay the full $10K stealer experience. See if a parts broker like Tom Berry can find you a same year low mileage motor and a referral to a mechanic or shop that will install it. I'm guessing you get it done for under $6K. Just a guess.
Good luck. I feel very bad for you as I'm sure we all do here.
What he said except I'm thinking about $4.5K with a used engine. But I would devise a plan to fight it first.Steve Ekstrand wrote:Fight it. Suburu used to give out SCCA memberships. You're hardly a hardcore participant, you're just somebody who has come out and improved their driving several times. They may put that in their policy, but Federal or California law may give greater warranty protections. Even if their contractual warranty is voided by timed motorsports, their common law or maybe UCC "warranty of merchantability" may still offer protection. At least ask to take it to arbitration and google some of the big cases out there on just this point. Of course, watch out for the Stealers evil lawyers, like my wife. They are truly impossible to deal with. ;)
Next.... Very few racers would pay the full $10K stealer experience. See if a parts broker like Tom Berry can find you a same year low mileage motor and a referral to a mechanic or shop that will install it. I'm guessing you get it done for under $6K. Just a guess.
Good luck. I feel very bad for you as I'm sure we all do here.
I'm with Marshall on this one. Barring the domino effect, a spun bearing isn't too bad to replace.Marshall Grice wrote:also assuming the block is still in one piece it's not really that tough to repair a spun bearing. you really shouldn't need a whole new engine unless you punched a hole in the side of the block. post up some pics if you have any.Steve Ekstrand wrote: Next.... Very few racers would pay the full $10K stealer experience. See if a parts broker like Tom Berry can find you a same year low mileage motor and a referral to a mechanic or shop that will install it. I'm guessing you get it done for under $6K. Just a guess.
Good luck. I feel very bad for you as I'm sure we all do here.
With no hole you're looking at some bearings, possibly some crank refinishing, and a new oil pump. If you shut it down as soon as it started making noise the rods are probably ok, but you might have to replace one or more of them depending on heat damage. maybe 2k in parts plus labor. Turbo, heads and pistons should be fine but could need some cleaning if your oil filter failed due to the bearing material overload.Ramin Beizaie wrote:Thanks for all the replies. No, as far as I know there isn't a hole in my motor. Apparently they just dropped the oil pan, found bearing material, and concluded new long block, and maybe new turbo. I don't have any pics - I'm told the motor is still in the car.
The reason I'm leaning toward having it done at the dealer is 1) warranty on the new motor afterwards, 2) just in case Subaru actually comes through with some goodwill money, I don't think I can take advantage of that unless it's a dealer repair, 3) at this point I just want my daily driver back asap, I don't have a car. I can't afford to have this thing sit for months while waiting for a cheap and potentially unreliable fix. I don't want to have to go through this a second time.
the 2.0l ARE the best subie engines, i can't think of anyone blowing the 2.0l autoxing , the latest 2.5l are junk.Mako Koiwai wrote:Weird ... Karen and I auto crossed our WRX's for quite a while ... Karen's stock ... mine quite tuned and many 100's of runs, and never had an engine problem. Our '06 Legacy Outback on the other hand ... just a freeway daily driver has required two complete engine rebuilds, including last time a new short block ... all under warranty.
I would have to agree based on my experience... Well, it did run great while it ran but sheesh, so fragile. Or maybe, doomed to failure from the start?Tom Denham wrote:the latest 2.5l are junk.
The closest subie shop to long beach that i would talk to would be SubieTech they are a hole in the wall shop, but do good work, I want to say the owners name is Mike ,but i am not sure.Ramin Beizaie wrote:Tom D, I notice you are from Long Beach. Do you know of a good Subie shop in the area that could do a solid rebuild? The only good Subie shop I am aware of is Subie Specialties in Monrovia, which is faaaar...
i know that area well, i grew up there and moved when i was 18, i am old now, but back then it was a rally course right out side my front door , tarmac twisties up on the hill , and dirt oil fields every where else, ah the good ole days of misbehaving }:)Ramin Beizaie wrote:Thanks to every one of you for your advice, rest assured I am considering all of it very seriously. Tom D., I live in Signal Hill.
with the popularity of the park on top of the hill, and the abundant people walking / running /walking their dogs, no more shinanigans.. unless you want to be an a-holeTom Denham wrote:i know that area well, i grew up there and moved when i was 18, i am old now, but back then it was a rally course right out side my front door , tarmac twisties up on the hill , and dirt oil fields every where else, ah the good ole days of misbehaving }:)Ramin Beizaie wrote:Thanks to every one of you for your advice, rest assured I am considering all of it very seriously. Tom D., I live in Signal Hill.
And when it rained like now, Oh man did i get in trouble
Jeff i am old here I'll do the math 44-18=26 years ago :: The whole city was a my park back thenJeff Shyu wrote:with the popularity of the park on top of the hill, and the abundant people walking / running /walking their dogs, no more shinanigans.. unless you want to be an a-holeTom Denham wrote:i know that area well, i grew up there and moved when i was 18, i am old now, but back then it was a rally course right out side my front door , tarmac twisties up on the hill , and dirt oil fields every where else, ah the good ole days of misbehaving }:)Ramin Beizaie wrote:Thanks to every one of you for your advice, rest assured I am considering all of it very seriously. Tom D., I live in Signal Hill.
And when it rained like now, Oh man did i get in trouble
i think "race" comes in whenever there's timing involved. it's not just an auto-x thing, i think they deny warranty based upon the "race" condition for drag racing (street legal drags, do they still have those?), auto-x, and time trials.George Schilling wrote:I'd be curious to know how the warranty is worded regarding "race" related exclusions. An argument can easily be made that with rolling starts, speeds averaging only 30-35 mph, and that autox entails driving around cones in parking lots, that autox hardly qualifies as "racing". I think a reasonable judge just might agree. I'm not sure, but I think a small claims action can be up to $7,500 and probably costs less that $100 to file and have them served. Might be worth a try especially if the wording in the warranty doesn't support the denial or if you can find prior court cases to support you claim. No matter what you decide to do, I roll the dice in small claims court.