What will it take to start racing my Covertable Mustang?

[Cam Correa]

Ok I have this completely stock 1985 convertable mustang.



I ask this from a completely newbie side of things, I've never even been to an autocross event.
I've been telling myself for years that I'm gonna get into it & just never have.

What about personal safty gear?
do I need a race suit & helmet?
I already have both being I'm into the Off Road racing thing.

I assume that I will need at least a 4 point roll bar & a Battery hold down?
But what else might I need?

I assume I could start in the stock class & then work my way up as my skills improve.

Right now the car has a worn out stock suspension, & I wonder how easy it will be to accidently modify myself into a class I have no chance in.

[Chuck Fowler]

Ok I have this completely stock 1985 convertable mustang.


I ask this from a completely newbie side of things, I've never even been to an autocross event.
I've been telling myself for years that I'm gonna get into it & just never have.

What about personal safty gear?
do I need a race suit & helmet?
I already have both being I'm into the Off Road racing thing.

I assume that I will need at least a 4 point roll bar & a Battery hold down?
But what else might I need?

I assume I could start in the stock class & then work my way up as my skills improve.

Right now the car has a worn out stock suspension, & I wonder how easy it will be to accidental modify myself into a class I have no chance in.

your own helmet is nice, unless you like sharing sweat (we have loaners).
SOLO doesn't require a roll bar for stock.
at the most, get a set of good tires, possibly on a spare set of stock sized wheels (not necessary).
it's VERY EASY to mod yourself into a class you don't want to start out in
spend the rest of the year hitting all the champ events (don't be thrown by the name, it's newb friendly), try to get into practices (there's usually a list), and just drive.

[Christine Grice]

Quick and dirty overview of the classes:
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%20Ru ... gories.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For any specific questions you should refer to the rules book:
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%20Ru ... ules_2.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Helmet Requirements:
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%20Ru ... lletin.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Best thing you can invest in initially is seat time. Do not be afraid to ask for instruction, we have a lot of great drivers in this region.

To help you class your car we would need to know what size engine it has since that seems to be the defining factor between it being in FS or GS.


Edit: Just FYI, in the next couple of hours I will be moving this thread to the "New to Autocross/New to this Forum" section since it would fit there a lot better.

[Jayson Woodruff]

BTW, there's nothing skill-less about stock class. A lot of the best driver's choose that prep level. So a newbie should be prepared to be pack fodder in any class for a while.

Jay W

[Cam Correa]

your own helmet is nice, unless you like sharing sweat (we have loaners).

Ewww gross.
I have my own full face pumper helmet & suit, gloves & shoes...
& its all brand new only worn in one race so far, So I'm pretty confindent that I have whats required personal safety gear wise.

SOLO doesn't require a roll bar for stock.

At what point do they? Mines a convertable remember.

at the most, get a set of good tires, possibly on a spare set of stock sized wheels (not necessary).

I'm currently running the factory wheels & the factory tire size.
Its really hard to find good sticky tires in a 15" wheel anymore these days.
But I found these BF Goodrich G-Force tires.

I'm assuming I'm not allowed to run a bigger than fatory wheel in the Stock class?

it's VERY EASY to mod yourself into a class you don't want to start out in

Yeah I figured, & thats why I'm so happy I've found this forum, 1st it will keep me motivated to do it this time, & gives me a place to ask the people that know.
Most people I know dont even know what AutoCross is.

spend the rest of the year hitting all the champ events (don't be thrown by the name, it's newb friendly), try to get into practices (there's usually a list), and just drive.

Looking forward to it.

[Cam Correa]

To help you class your car we would need to know what size engine it has since that seems to be the defining factor between it being in FS or GS.

1st off let me thank you for the links.
I wonder, I have a rule book thats probably 5 or so years old, might it be worth reading or is it too out dated?


& My Convertable Mustang stats are
1985 5.0/302 engine
5 spd trans
4 Bbl carb

I'm not sure what else you might need to know?

[Aaron Goldsmith]

I'm pretty sure it's F stock, so you'd probably want to run F Stock/SK2 localy. The SK classes just mean the competitors have to run on street tires. You'll also get a lot more people in your class, since SK1 and SK2 are very popular localy.

[Christine Grice]

in stock classes here are all of the listings for mustangs:

FS:
Ford
Mustang Mach 1 (‘03+)
Mustang Cobra (‘03-’04)
Mustang SVT Cobra
Mustang V8, NOC
Mustang Shelby GT, T82 and 54U (factory option package only)

GS:
Ford
Mustang V6 and 4 cyl. turbo
Mustang SVO

HS:
Ford
Mustang Inline, 4 & 6-cyl.
Mustang II, 4 & 6-cyl.

[Steve Ekstrand]

Probably in September the Toyo R1R will be out in a 225-45-15
That will be an SK legal tire locally, and might work really well on your car and stock rims. It'll be shorter than stock by a lot giving better gearing and also lower the car.

They won't be long lasting but they are RELATIVELY cheap.

[Steve Ekstrand]

I just wanted to point out an upcoming sticky tire that will fit your car well. To get started your G-Forces will be just fine.

[Kurt Rahn]

One more thing: for a year (or until you win a trophy) you can race as a novice. This way you can run in any run group you want during champ events, and your times are classed against other novices, rather than the Big Boys (and Girls). As someone who recently made the transition to SK2, you'll want to run a couple races as a novice. SK2 has some great drivers, and they'll clean your clock, which is a little demoralizing when you're just starting out.

Also, do take advantage of the instructors here! Instructor ride-alongs are really helpful, but I learned a *ton* when I had an instructor drive my car, so see how it should be done, compared to how I was driving it. Welcome!

[Steve Ekstrand]

I thought FS was in SK1???

[Christine Grice]

From our Supp regs:

1) SK1 consists of SS, AS, BS and FS.
2) SK2 consists of CS, DS, ES, GS and HS.


http://www.solo2.com/MiscDocuments/2007_supp_regs.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Aaron Goldsmith]

I thought FS was in SK1???

I just guessed.. I know about as much about the Sk classes as i do about L1 and L2. ie. there are ddiffrent classes in them.. I think L1 is supposed to be faster since our car is in it ;)

[Kurt Rahn]

You're right: FS -> SK1. That's possibly even worse (depending on who's running).

[Christine Grice]

Aaron, STU goes in L2, for the Prosolo ladies classes the faster cars are in L2 for the local SK classes, the faster cars are in SK1. Just in case you weren't confused enough

[Cam Correa]

Probably in September the Toyo R1R will be out in a 225-45-15
That will be an SK legal tire locally, and might work really well on your car and stock rims. It'll be shorter than stock by a lot giving better gearing and also lower the car.

They won't be long lasting but they are RELATIVELY cheap.

I guess this would be why I'd want another set of rims for these.
I'm assuming they'll look silly on the street. too small for the wheel wells.

Am I allowed to run a bigger rim?
like a 17 inch or something?

[Christine Grice]

Stock – This category includes mass-produced, common vehicles that may be “daily drivers” (cars used for normal, everyday driving). Stock Category cars compete in their “factory” configuration with a minimal number of allowances (not requirements) such as:
- Removal of spare tire and tools
- Front anti-roll bar(s)
- Suspension/wheel alignment using standard adjustments
- High-performance DOT tires (including competition R-compounds) (unless you run our SK classes which require street tires)
- Shock absorbers/struts (2 external adjustments maximum)
- Competition-type seat belts (no shoulder belts in open cars)
- Brake linings (pads/shoes)
- Air filter element (the “throw-away” part)
- “Cat”-back exhaust systems
- Wheels of standard size (diameter, width, and offset within ¼”)
- Roll bar/cage
- Gauges, indicator lights, etc.

http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%20Ru ... gories.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Aaron Goldsmith]

Aaron, STU goes in L2, for the Prosolo ladies classes the faster cars are in L2 for the local SK classes, the faster cars are in SK1. Just in case you weren't confused enough

Oh yeah.. i forgot Annie cut out those 2's by hand right before the pro. Man, I can't keep these indexed classes straight at all.

[Bob Beamesderfer]

For Solo, you only need the helmet, Snell 95 or better. Gloves are up to you.

A roll bar isn't required for open cars until the Prepared category, which isn't for street driven cars. [Except for maybe a crazy guy from San Diego in a Lotus.]

Nice stable of off-road machines. The Sammy is the one nobody outside of off-roading knows about and makes the Hummer look almost as ridiculous as it is on pavement.

[Christine Grice]

Moved this thread to:

New to Autocross/New to the Forum

[Cam Correa]

Stock – This category includes mass-produced, common vehicles that may be “daily drivers” (cars used for normal, everyday driving). Stock Category cars compete in their “factory” configuration with a minimal number of allowances (not requirements) such as:
- Removal of spare tire and tools
- Front anti-roll bar(s)
- Suspension/wheel alignment using standard adjustments
- High-performance DOT tires (including competition R-compounds) (unless you run our SK classes which require street tires)
- Shock absorbers/struts (2 external adjustments maximum)
- Competition-type seat belts (no shoulder belts in open cars)
- Brake linings (pads/shoes)
- Air filter element (the “throw-away” part)
- “Cat”-back exhaust systems
- Wheels of standard size (diameter, width, and offset within ¼”)
- Roll bar/cage
- Gauges, indicator lights, etc.

http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%20Ru ... gories.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yeah I read that after I posted the queston.

So are there any mustang racers here I could ask certain questons too?

I'm wondering about the roll bar?
Bolt in is ok right?
& If I'm running the stock class would tieing the subframe together with either frame connectors or a 6 point bar be legal?

- Suspension/wheel alignment using standard adjustments
does this mean I can not add adjustment plates to the car?
its a common mustang up-grade to allow more adjustment in the alingment.
Its not fatory though?


- Competition-type seat belts (no shoulder belts in open cars)
Does this mean I must install a harness?

- “Cat”-back exhaust systems
From the factory my engine has headers that connect into a single exhaust pipe then to the Cat & from there it splits into a dual exhaust.
I'm assuming the above rule means I Can Not do a true dual exhaust?

- Shock absorbers/struts (2 external adjustments maximum)
what does that mean exactly?

[Giovanni Jaramillo]

What about personal safty gear?
do I need a race suit & helmet?
I already have both being I'm into the Off Road racing thing.

As others mentioned, HELMET is mandatory (SNELL rating).

A race suit is definitely OVERKILL because for one thing you'll only be in the car for 60 seconds per lap, then break for a few minutes (3-4 runs total on champ days), and two, you're not wheel-to-wheel racing. This is more like "qualifying" to put it into race terms.

Gloves are optional and helpful to certain drivers. I like them because my hands don't feel the heat of the leather on the steering wheel and forces me to not "Grip" the wheel. I just hold it with a light feather touch.

[Christine Grice]

- Suspension/wheel alignment using standard adjustments
does this mean I can not add adjustment plates to the car?
its a common mustang up-grade to allow more adjustment in the alingment.
Its not fatory though?

Sorry, not legal. Is a nice upgrade in a lot of cars but not allowed for stock class

- Competition-type seat belts (no shoulder belts in open cars)
Does this mean I must install a harness?

Not required. But if you do, because you have a convetable it says no sholder straps.

- “Cat”-back exhaust systems
From the factory my engine has headers that connect into a single exhaust pipe then to the Cat & from there it splits into a dual exhaust.
I'm assuming the above rule means I Can Not do a true dual exhaust?

This rule means that the only part of your exhaust that you can replace is after your Cat, everything else must be stock.

- Shock absorbers/struts (2 external adjustments maximum)
what does that mean exactly?

Normal shocks that come with your car have no adjustability. Here we have to keep the same springs but you can replace you shocks/struts with ones that allow you to adjust compression and damping, helps to tune the suspension (helps to make up for the lack of adjustment in the alignment)

As for the roll bar I'm not sure so I will defer to others that do know.

[Steve Ekstrand]

The rules don't let you have fun with the roll bar to add chassis stiffness. You'll find it to be a somewhat of a waste and added weight if chassis stiffening is your only goal. But if you want to do track days too and need the safety, then I'd consider it.

Not an expert though on what's allowed. I'm sure bolt-ins are okay.