Ford starter solenoid problem

[George Schilling]

I have an old Ford van with the traditional Ford starter solenoid located near the battery. I'm on my 3rd solenoid in as many days. After replacing it, it test starts fine, everything appears normal. After driving the truck for a time, eventually the points in the solenoid will stick causing the started to continue running after engine start up. A rap on the solenoid will open the points and stop the starter. Additionally, after the truck is warmed up, the starter that sounded great when testing, now drags or won't turn over at all. I'm thinking something is causing the starter to over amp causing the solenoid to stick. BTW, I've already eliminated the ignition switch not disengaging by pulling the start wire while the problem is happening to no avail. Can anyone explain what is causing the starter to drag when warm? This must be the problem? Any thoughts from the mechanic types?

Thanks in advance

[Mike Simanyi]

Any thoughts from the mechanic types?

Sure! These are nice:

Ford-F350-sml.jpg (30.42 KiB) Viewed 3610 times

C'mon George - Uncle Sam needs you('re money multiplying in the economy)!

[Marshall Grice]

Can anyone explain what is causing the starter to drag when warm? This must be the problem? Any thoughts from the mechanic types?

Thanks in advance

the crap they use to insulate the windings in the starter will get gooey when hot causing it to rotate slowly. a slow spinning starter draws a crap load of current. (you've probably seen this happen many times in the FSAE driver change area) but a well designed starter system should have a solenoid that can handle the max starter current.

i think mike has the correct solution.

or try replacing the starter.

[Aaron Goldsmith]

Can anyone explain what is causing the starter to drag when warm? This must be the problem? Any thoughts from the mechanic types?

Thanks in advance

the crap they use to insulate the windings in the starter will get gooey when hot causing it to rotate slowly. a slow spinning starter draws a crap load of current. (you've probably seen this happen many times in the FSAE driver change area) but a well designed starter system should have a solenoid that can handle the max starter current.

i think mike has the correct solution.

or try replacing the starter.

You try the Ford starter or usin the napa one?

[Craig Naylor]

Any thoughts from the mechanic types?

Sure! These are nice:

Ford-F350-sml.jpg

While not a Ford Truck fan, that thar's a perdy looking truck. If only the interior quality, ride, and mechanical capabilities back up the exterior looks.

[Steve Lepper]

Look for a bad ground cable or connection.

[George Schilling]

I haven't replaced the starter yet. The solenoid is Kragen's top of the line, lifetime warranty, Chinese model. The one thing I don't recall checking is the ground to the engine block. If that checks out, looks like I'm looking at a starter?

Although that new truck looks nice Mike, this is a spare that sits most of the time.........goes out only occasionally with a helper. I'm sure he'd like a new one though.

[Marshall Grice]

Look for a bad ground cable or connection.

I believe additional resistance on the ground path would reduce the overall current through the starter which wouldn't cause the solenoid contacts to spot weld themselves together.

If you were simply tracking down a slow spinning starter or other electrical components frying when you crank the engine that would be a likely culprit.

[Kristoffer Gjevre]

Any thoughts from the mechanic types?

Sure! These are nice:


C'mon George - Uncle Sam needs you('re money multiplying in the economy)!

Or the 2011 model:


I am starting to think I like the grill, lights, and vent/emblem on the fender better on the 2010 model.
The vent/emblem moved up to the hood side does not look as good to me, and the big diesel emblem on the door is just too much...

Hope you got the starter/solenoid fixed, sorry for drifting...