Hi guys (and gals)
I have the impression that at Saturday's GRA event in one of the 20 laps I broke one of my engine mounts (or maybe two - but definitely not three ).
Is there a relatively easy way to test that?
I just noticed that when the engine turns off it vibrates a bit more than it used to...nothing dramatic but I can definitely feel something different...
I currently have the Mazdaspeed mounts on my car - which I believe are a bit stiffer but not up to the new torque levels of the engine. I guess the constant downshifting/upshifting during the practice didn't help either }:)
Chris
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
pull the e-brake up, (and/or push on the brakes) and with the car in gear try to move the car, meaning let the clutch out about half way rather quickly and then push it back in (so you dont stall). your looking for how much the engine moves. (takes two people). some movment is ok of course, but if it looks like its way more then just a little bit or it clunks thats a pretty good sign.
Here is a video of a guy doing what I said. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pJuY4UO ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Casey Brier wrote:there is always the e-brake trick.
pull the e-brake up, (and/or push on the brakes) and with the car in gear try to move the car, meaning let the clutch out about half way rather quickly and then push it back in (so you dont stall). your looking for how much the engine moves. (takes two people). some movment is ok of course, but if it looks like its way more then just a little bit or it clunks thats a pretty good sign.
Here is a video of a guy doing what I said. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pJuY4UO ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
What he said. I've heard we have one of the best engine mount inspectors in the country right here in our region. Maybe you could give Renee a call for help on this.
CASOC Autocross Club, 1984 Van Diemen RF-84, 1600cc Kent, Hewland Mk9, Centerline 2 pc. wheels, Hoosier R25B, SuperTrapp, Zimmer Alloclassic titanium left hip w/Metasul LDH chromium-cobalt lg dia head
without putting too much thought into it, I belive you do the soame thing in reverse gear and it will test the other side. (it twist the engine in the other direction...... I think)
"cars...you spend money you don't have, to buy the parts you don't need, to impress the people you don't like....."
Casey Brier wrote:without putting too much thought into it, I belive you do the soame thing in reverse gear and it will test the other side. (it twist the engine in the other direction...... I think)
You might want to think about that one just a little longer...
~Christine Grice
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution, Berry Family Racing/Hoosier/ChaseCam
Casey Brier wrote:without putting too much thought into it, I belive you do the soame thing in reverse gear and it will test the other side. (it twist the engine in the other direction...... I think)
You might want to think about that one just a little longer...
Casey Brier wrote:without putting too much thought into it, I belive you do the soame thing in reverse gear and it will test the other side. (it twist the engine in the other direction...... I think)
You might want to think about that one just a little longer...
I agree with Casey. The torque applied to the engine is derived from the locked up drive shaft which obviously reverses when the car is in reverse. Am I missing something?
Last edited by George Schilling on Tue May 05, 2009 10:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
CASOC Autocross Club, 1984 Van Diemen RF-84, 1600cc Kent, Hewland Mk9, Centerline 2 pc. wheels, Hoosier R25B, SuperTrapp, Zimmer Alloclassic titanium left hip w/Metasul LDH chromium-cobalt lg dia head
Casey Brier wrote:without putting too much thought into it, I belive you do the soame thing in reverse gear and it will test the other side. (it twist the engine in the other direction...... I think)
You might want to think about that one just a little longer...
you might want to draw a freebody diagram real quick...
for the record the engine will rock the other direction in reverse when you release the clutch.
I'm almost always "right" but it's nice to finally have someone acknowledge it.
CASOC Autocross Club, 1984 Van Diemen RF-84, 1600cc Kent, Hewland Mk9, Centerline 2 pc. wheels, Hoosier R25B, SuperTrapp, Zimmer Alloclassic titanium left hip w/Metasul LDH chromium-cobalt lg dia head
I used to just put a jack under the engine and jack it up a bit and see if the mount separates. Of course that was on a 240Z where you could actually see the ground through the engine compartment and the mounts were not obscured by anything at all.....
Since light is faster than sound...many people look bright until they speak...
Casey Brier wrote:looks to me that is the right side mount that is broke. (lifting to much).
when in forward gear all looks fine.
I concur. Should be an easy change out on that side.
CASOC Autocross Club, 1984 Van Diemen RF-84, 1600cc Kent, Hewland Mk9, Centerline 2 pc. wheels, Hoosier R25B, SuperTrapp, Zimmer Alloclassic titanium left hip w/Metasul LDH chromium-cobalt lg dia head
Casey Brier wrote:looks to me that is the right side mount that is broke. (lifting to much).
when in forward gear all looks fine.
I concur. Should be an easy change out on that side.
Just have someone ride the clutch in reverse and you'll get that extra arm room you need to change it.
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